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..This is my favorite 'tapper" tool : {2018 Material : ...}
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..6 " long and 0.3" by 0.4" cross section, made of split spruce wood with "213" wood tone and # 22 rub tone.
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..This is my new favorite 'tapper" tool : {2020 Material : ...} [Really reduces the unwanted high overtones...]
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..6 " long and 0.3" by 0.4" cross section, made of split spruce wood with "213" wood tone and # 22 rub tone. (As before, but now split it with a thin metal wedge in the center line; in line with the tree growth rings, into two equal halves.)
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..Longitudinal Cross-Section as seem from the side..
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..Cross Section in the middle...
..Now that it is split apart, dig out the wood in a mortise shape leaving enough wood on the edges for gluing back together after the hollowed out areas of the two halves are filled most of the way with lead 'bird shot' (fine lead pellets from sporting shops). Leave a little room so the lead shot has some room to move when assembled.
..Now mix up your violin making hide glue and wet all the joint areas and tip the two halves together quickly and clamp in place until dry.
..This "Dead Tapper" will eliminate much of the high overtones which really helps us hear the lowest overtone, which is what we are listening and adjusting our violin parts from.
..HIGHLY recommended for tap tone tuning!
..(0.1") " thick section, made by sawing off a section of violin rosin block, then gluing to the end of the spruce with violin making (hide) glue. Tap with this end.
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..This taper (with the rosin block end) is especially good for hearing tap tones on tailpiece and when tuning the "wings" of the sound holes.